Christine Hutter, Founder and CEO of Moritz Grossmann, during the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition, held at DECC. Pic: Baher Amin / The Peninsula
Moritz Grossmann, German Luxury wristwatches manufacturer, has unveiled its latest novelties at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition.
Moritz Grossmann debuted their first GMT watch. Available in a 41 mm x 11.85 mm white or rose gold case the Atum GMT features the primary time in the center of the dial and a peripheral 24-hour scale with an arrow indicating a second time zone, as well as if it’s day or night.
Adjustment of the second time zone is controlled by a dedicated crown at 10’clock and is done so it one-hour increments, forward or backward, with no effect on the 12-hour display in the center. A ratchet wheel with ratchet spring is used to adjust the time in the pre-defined hourly gearshifts.
The 24-hour time zone ring is regulated via a complex system of gear wheels and always runs in sync with the center time. The 24-hour display follows the 12-hour hand when the center time is set using the crown.
A manually wound watch is reset weekly. It was a challenge for the watchmakers at Grossmann to improve the functional reliability and convenience of this operation. When the user briefly pulls the winding crown out, this mechanism switches to the hand-setting mode and stops the movement. The crown immediately returns to its home position but can be turned to precisely set the hands.
Afterward, the movement is restarted with the pusher adjacent to the winding crown without altering the positions of the hands. At the same time, the mechanism switches back to the winding mode.
