Roasted feta fattoush / Photo by Rey Lopez for The Washington Post; food styling by Carolyn Robb for The Washington Post
The first time I dined at Albi, chef Michael Rafidi’s rousing party of a restaurant in Washington’s Navy Yard neighborhood, I noticed a tiny, beautiful detail: Every time a lemon wedge garnished a piece of fish or a grilled kebab or a plate of slender flatbreads, one tip of it was neatly coated in za’atar, a jaunty green hat on a sliver of gold.
The za’atar in question here is the spice mix, which traditionally contains sumac, sesame seeds and the herb za’atar - a fuzzy-leafed, musky green in the oregano, marjoram and thyme family that grows wild throughout the Levant.
As a za’atar enthusiast, I became fixated on the restaurant’s fervent use of the seasoning. There it was with roast duck. And was that a pinch of it on the mushrooms? Mellowed in olive oil, it was brushed on nearly every pillow-like pita. The woodsy tartness of the spice blend goes well with seemingly everything, flora and fauna. I later learned that its use - categorically common among cuisines of the Levant - extended to Rafidi’s other restaurants.
In the fall of 2023, at Yellow, the chef’s casual cafe, I ate a salad that now has its own file inside my brain. There’s a note on my phone about it: "fattoush: Pita is coated with olive oil and za’atar and roasted or fried until crisp, then broken up and - just before serving - tossed with sliced apples, cucumber, fresh mint, basil and crumbled feta. Dressing: harissa, sumac, what else?”
Ever since, I’ve been mixing up similar salads at home. Though I’d had fattoush many times before, at homes and restaurants, Rafidi’s was different. Its flavors, temperatures and textures coexisted in a gorgeous, vibrant equilibrium.
Needless to say, I’ve never re-created the real deal. This recipe for Roasted Feta fattoush is inspired by the one served at Yellow. Unsurprisingly, it starts with za’atar.
A tablespoon of the seasoning blend goes into a fairly standard vinaigrette, along with lemon juice, garlic and honey. Some of this - good enough, I think, to sip like a cocktail - is drizzled on top of slabs of feta, sweet potatoes and green beans before they’re roasted. The feta gets burnished in the oven; use sheep’s-milk feta for an even creamier result.
The roasted cheese and vegetables go onto beds of greens along with radish slices and fresh herbs. Meanwhile, the pita is brushed with oil and broiled on that same sheet pan. Just before serving, it’s broken into shards and layered onto each salad, along with the remaining za’atar dressing.
But before you plate everything up, be sure to taste each element, then dip a green bean into the dressing. You’re looking for a balance between sour, sweet and salty; creamy and crunchy; and fresh and cooked. It’s tricky to reach such an equilibrium, and, for each of us, it’s unique. But tweaking until you get there? Forgive the cliché, but that’s the spice of life.
Roasted Feta Fattoush
2 to 3 servings (makes 5 cups)
Total time: 40 mins
Slabs of salty feta turn creamy in the oven, alongside sweet potatoes and green beans, in this salad that plays with temperature and texture. Inspired by one served at Yellow cafe in Washington, this recipe is a variation of fattoush, a Levantine salad full of fresh vegetables and crunchy pita chips. A za’atar dressing, with lots of lemon and garlic, is a lovely foil to the other components.
Make ahead: The za’atar dressing can be prepared and refrigerated up to 1 day in advance.
Storage: Refrigerate the dressing and vegetables separately for up to 2 days.
Where to buy: Za’atar can be found at spice shops, Middle Eastern markets, well-stocked supermarkets and online.
INGREDIENTS
For the dressing:
1/4 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon)
1 tablespoon za’atar (see headnote and Where to buy)
1 1/2 teaspoons honey
3 garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
Freshly cracked black pepper
Fine salt (optional; see Notes)
For the salad:
3 tablespoons olive oil, divided
6 ounces green beans, trimmed
1 small sweet potato (8 ounces), peeled, if desired, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Fine salt (optional; see Notes)
1 (8-ounce) block feta, drained, patted dry and halved
2 (6- to 8-inch) pitas, preferably whole-wheat, split
2 cups (2 ounces) tender salad greens, such as baby spinach, baby kale, arugula, sorrel or a mix
1 heart romaine lettuce or head Little Gem lettuce, thinly sliced
3 red radishes, thinly sliced
1 shallot, thinly sliced (optional)
1/4 cup chopped mixed fresh tender herbs, such as dill, parsley, mint or basil
STEPS
Make the dressing: In a small bowl, stir together the oil, lemon juice, za’atar, honey and garlic, and add a few turns of the pepper mill. Taste, and season with salt, if needed. You should have about 1/3 cup.
Make the salad: Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees.
Line a large sheet pan with aluminum foil, if desired, and grease with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Toss the green beans and sweet potato together on the oiled pan, and season lightly with salt, if desired. Move the vegetables aside to make space in the center of the pan for the feta. It should lie flat against the bottom of the pan, with a little space between the two slabs and the vegetables.
Drizzle the feta and vegetables with 1 tablespoon of the dressing. Roast for 15 to 20 minutes, or until everything browns around the edges. Remove from the oven, position a rack about 6 inches from the broiler element and preheat the broiler on HIGH.
Meanwhile, brush the pitas with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, and season with salt, if desired.
Divide the greens, lettuce, radishes, shallot, if using, and herbs among shallow bowls. Using a spatula, transfer a block of feta (breaking it up, if desired) and some of the vegetables to each bowl. Place the oiled pitas on the sheet pan and broil for 2 to 3 minutes, or until crisp. Break the pitas into pieces, divide among the bowls, add a drizzle of the dressing to each bowl and serve warm.
Substitutions: Feta >> firm or extra-firm tofu, or paneer. Green beans >> cooked or canned and drained chickpeas or broccoli florets. Sweet potato >> Yukon Gold, red potato or winter squash. Radishes >> mini cucumbers. Lemon juice >> orange or grapefruit juice. Honey >> sugar or agave. Gluten-free? >> Use gluten-free pitas. Or use rice crackers - no need to oil or broil.
Notes: The amount of salt in za’atar can vary depending on the brand. Taste first before adding salt to the salad or dressing.
Nutrition per serving, based on 3, using no-salt-added za’atar: 722 calories, 58g carbohydrates, 67mg cholesterol, 49g fat, 8g fiber, 18g protein, 15g saturated fat, 1108mg sodium, 16g sugar
This analysis is an estimate based on available ingredients and this preparation. It should not substitute for a dietitian’s or nutritionist’s advice.
